A Kimberley Coast Cruise Aboard True North II

In mid-August, at the end of Western Australia's dry season, we embarked on a ten-day cruise through the mystical Kimberley Coast—a journey to wilderness wonders few have experienced. Remote reefs, thousands of castaway islands, cavernous gorges, and ancient rock art awaited us in this land where the ebb and flow of the world's largest tropical tides form the beating heart of the Kimberley.

This is a bucket list adventure, not only for local Australians but also for international travellers seeking an exceptional wilderness experience wrapped in barefoot luxury.

The Vessel and Crew

Our 34-meter vessel, True North II, was purpose-built for these waters. With five tender boats and a Squirrel helicopter aboard, comfortable cabins, and two five-star chefs catering to all 20 passengers, every detail was designed for adventure and comfort. The friendly, energetic crew offered guests wonderful experiences by day—epic fishing, nature tours, and intriguing rock art expeditions.

Our journey began with a scenic helicopter flight from El Questro Station near Kununurra (with a fishing stop along the way!) before arriving in the outback town of Wyndham. There, Captain Robb and his capable crew of 13 welcomed us aboard—all wonderful people we delighted in getting to know over our ten-day adventure.

Day One: King George Falls

We departed Wyndham after a delicious first meal at the generously sized communal dining table in the air-conditioned main cabin. Overnight, we steamed through Cambridge Gulf and awoke the next morning to spectacular sights.

King George Falls, with its magnificent twin waterfalls, sits within the North Kimberley Marine Park—an area inaccessible by vehicle due to its remote location along the King George River. The best way to see these falls is aboard an expedition cruise or via scenic flight, and fortunately, True North II offers guests both experiences in abundance.

The colour palette hits you first: the deep blue of the cloudless sky, the ragged red of rocks stacked high as skyscrapers, and the serpentine green of the sea below. The King George River plunges over an ancient sandstone cliff into tidal waters, creating the truly astounding spectacle of Oomari (King George Falls)—Western Australia's highest twin waterfalls.

The river holds deep cultural significance for the Balanggarra people, for whom the falls represent the male and female Wunkurr (Rainbow Serpents).

As we inched our way into the King George River, Captain Robb skillfully nosed True North II's bow right under one of the twin falls—close enough for the braver passengers to stand below for a freshwater shower. During the dry season, these falls can narrow to a slow trickle, but in the wet season, their powerful flow is incredible to witness. True North offers Kimberley waterfall tours each year for those who love to see magnificent falls in full flow. Replenished by rains during the wet season, waterfalls along the Kimberley Coast are at their best during the early part of cruising season, starting in late March.

Later that morning, we boarded tenders to explore the river itself and soon discovered a large, lazy saltwater crocodile asleep on his favourite rock. He could barely bother to open one eye to acknowledge our presence. Despite their fearsome reputation, when observed from a safe distance, these creatures are magnificent in their own way—examples of evolution so perfectly suited to their habitat that they've remained unchanged for millennia.

During our small boat tour of the King George River, we were treated to a display of tail flicks by two grazing dugong. These notoriously shy creatures have no dorsal fin or hind limbs, just paddle-like flippers and a fluked, dolphin-like tail. They're the only strictly herbivorous marine mammal, grazing mainly on sea grass. Dugongs are long-lived—the oldest recorded specimen reached 73 years. Australia is home to the world's largest dugong populations, and interestingly, they're closer relatives of elephants than dolphins.

A highlight of our first day was the helicopter flight over this powerful, snaking river system and its stunning waterfalls, shaped by Kimberley wet season rainfall. We soared over stunning white sand beaches surrounding Koolama Bay and steep red rocks amid arid scrublands studded with deep green billabongs.

Day Two: Mitchell Plateau and Ancient Art

After steaming overnight to Vansittart Bay and the Mitchell River, we awoke to a cooked breakfast before exploring the wonders of the Mitchell Plateau. We departed by tender to discover the rock art treasures of Jar Island and examine the burial practices of ancient First Nations peoples.

Two major rock art traditions are found in the Kimberley: Gwion Gwion (Bradshaw) figures and Wandjina rock art. The Gwion Gwion paintings, claimed to be some of the earliest figurative art dating back 17,000 to 40,000 years, were first seen by European eyes in the late 1890s. Their distinguishing feature is stick-like human figures, often depicted with adornments of tassels or sashes.

Mid-morning, helicopter flights began as all 20 guests were transported across the Mitchell Plateau to the three beautiful billabongs known as Eagle Falls. Here, our chefs Roberto and Marco prepared a sumptuous picnic and barbecue while we swam in crystal-clear green pools, lazed like lizards on nearby rocks, and explored rock art hidden under overhanging escarpments. Shade cloths, camp chairs, and a wide selection of cold beverages completed our luxury picnic as we watched a wedge-tailed eagle weaving and diving to compete for our lunch leftovers of beef and lamb.

Early the next morning (6 AM!), we sought out more extraordinary rock art via helicopter with our competent pilot Bryce, marveling at the efforts of ancient peoples to leave their mark for all time using the rich magenta and orange ochres of the Kimberley. The elders request that this artwork not be shared online, and we respect this wish.

Fishing and Mitchell Falls

The Kimberley is renowned for some of the world's best reef and game fishing. One of our group was itching to try their luck with a fishing rod on reefs teeming with fish of all kinds. Success came in the form of a magnificent Spanish mackerel, though barramundi remained elusive as black-tipped reef sharks circled our catch. Later that night, the mackerel provided enough dinner for all guests and crew.

The Mitchell Falls are located 40 kilometres upstream from where we'd anchored at the mouth of the Mitchell River. After lunch, we boarded the helicopter again to view Punamii-Uunpuu (Mitchell Falls), where the Mitchell River pours over four levels, with water cascading from one mesmerizing emerald pool to the next. The lower Mitchell Falls are equally beautiful, especially in early morning light. That evening, our crew spoiled us with special beach drinks at Cape Voltaire to watch the sunset, serving watermelon mojitos while building a wonderful driftwood bonfire.

Island Adventures and the Catacombs

The following morning, we awoke anchored by Winyalkin Island and went ashore for an oystering session, taking fresh oysters straight off the rocks. The oysters paired perfectly with Virgin Bloody Marys the crew had prepared for us. Natalie, our onboard naturalist, guided us on a nature tour at Katers Island while others viewed rock art at Palm Island. All guests finished their expedition by walking through the amazing Catacombs, where the rugged sandstone coastline has eroded into caverns and secret passageways through the rocks. A few lucky adventurers then set off by helicopter for an overnight luxury camp by a billabong, sleeping under the stars. They later remarked it was one of the best experiences of their lives.

Hunter River and Wildlife Encounters

Uur next port of call was the picturesque Hunter River, which flows into Prince Frederick Harbour and the Indian Ocean. With its red sandstone cliffs and extensive mangrove system, it teems with wildlife—from Brahminy kites, ospreys, and white-bellied sea eagles to mud crabs and saltwater crocodiles. This river has the highest crocodile population in all the Kimberley region.

Some guests headed out for reef fishing while others boarded the helicopter for scenic flights. Bryce manoeuvred his Squirrel helicopter through narrow gorges with spectacular river systems below, heading toward Donkin Falls and engaging in crocodile spotting from the air over Porosus Creek. A mud crabbing expedition through the creek via tenders yielded excellent results in our wire crab traps, and the succulent crab meat was enjoyed later in our voyage. Some lucky guests enjoyed wine and cheese that night on Manning Peak during a helicopter sunset tour. The light over Prince Frederick Harbour was sensational.

Camp Creek and Melaleuca Falls

Monday morning arrived, and some set off for fishing expeditions while others explored Camp Creek. These beautiful river systems always offer wildlife experiences of some sort. Our lunchtime plan was a helicopter picnic at Melaleuca Falls, complete with deep water holes for swimming, a rope swing for the more adventurous, and a shady setting under eucalyptus trees to enjoy a sumptuous meal and singalong. The True North II Quiz Night, combined with parlor games, provided plenty of laughs as crew and guests dressed up for Party Night.

Prince Regent River and Kings Cascade

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Next stop was the Prince Regent River system, where we got up close to the magnificent Kings Cascade waterfall. Some brave guests headed to the bow of their tender for a freshwater shower while others embarked on a steep walk to the waterfall's source and a freshwater swimming hole.

Sale River Adventures

Sale River was our next destination, where some guests headed off for successful helicopter fishing for barramundi. Others opted for billy tea and damper at the head of Sale River, spotting crocodiles and rock art along the way. Bryce offered a special helicopter flight up the Sale River gorge to a swimming spot, complete with beers on sun loungers under a pop-up beach umbrella.

Montgomery Reef

On our return flight, the helicopter stretched out over Doubtful Bay to meet True North II as she steamed toward Montgomery Reef and High Cliffy Islands. Guests departed for tender rides along the reef system's fringes, viewing large turtles, eagle rays, and other marine life. This reef has a tidal range of ten metres, and at nearly five metres high, the reef emerges from the ocean as the tide recedes.

Later, we all flew over the reef for a bird's-eye view, spotting everything from loggerhead turtles to large crocodiles. The day was topped off by a raft-up of all five tenders, with most of the crew and all guests enjoying sunset drinks, bar snacks, and a singalong as the sun set over Raft Point.

Final Day: Talbot Bay and Horizontal Falls

On our final day in the Kimberley, we had an early morning walk to McNabb's waterhole for a freshwater swim, then stepped aboard the trusty tenders for a scenic cruise around Dugong Bay. The water was millpond calm, and the sights were plentiful. Bryce began his helicopter flights over magnificent Talbot Bay and the Horizontal Falls, where the Kimberley's massive tides create the effect of a waterfall flowing horizontally across rather than into the water.

We explored "Horrie" Falls, as locals call them, and the far reaches of beautiful Talbot Bay by tender, entering sheltered Cyclone Creek with its 1.8-billion-year-old rock faces where pearl luggers once took shelter in bad weather. Talbot Bay, comprised of over 880 islands, was a spectacular place to finish our cruise of the magnificent Kimberley Coast before steaming overnight down the coast to Broome—completing what surely must be rated as one of the most wondrous and exceptional Australian adventures possible.

Experience the magic of the Kimberley Coast aboard True North II—where ancient landscapes meet modern luxury in one of the world's last true wilderness frontiers.